Diving in Khao Sok National Park, Thailand
If you live and work in diving then believe me – it’s good to get away once in a while! Lots of us choose to go diving somewhere else for a bit of fun, to see something different and to be surprised by what is around the corner. I live and work in Thailand so we have lots of opportunity for different dive locations right on our doorstep yet one of my good friends has been exploring a completely different area for diving.
Khoa Sok National Park is made up of thick ancient rain forest, calm and peaceful, with beautiful limestone columns towering out of the 165sq km lake that dominates the park. Most people go to trek in the jungle, spot wildlife and absorb the tranquillity, but a lake that large holds too much temptation for avid divers.
The lake was created due to a damming project which has left many of the stunning rock formations underwater. While the underwater the terrain remains largely uncharted, gradual, careful research and exploration has located many divers playgrounds with many new sites just waiting to be discovered.
Fresh water diving is certainly a different experience for those used to salt but it’s nice to surface without feeling sticky and crusty from salt water. Diving in the park takes you back to the old days of diving in Thailand. A limited number of longtails provide the only transport on the lake and a backward roll entry is the only way to splash in. The water is warm but once you descend through the first few meters the temperature drops a few degrees and it becomes crystal clear. The water has a greenish tinge rather than tropical blue and sets a great atmosphere for the fantastic structures below the surface. Swimming around some of the stalagmites and stalactites you will be both dwarfed and awed by the gradual march of nature that has created these behemoths. There are some amazing grottos too and their grandness and structure awesome. In places you can see strange patterns in the walls that look like alien cave writings and the eagle eyed might even spot a few fossils too.
Without a cavern or cave certification the diving is well within the light zone and the sometimes eerie silhouettes with the green water back drop are awesome. You can enjoy the diving here without ‘going in’ and there’s certainly enough to see for those who prefer wide open spaces. Catfish and large silverside fish stalk in crevices and are clearly unused to divers. The cat fish are particularly curious, often swimming dizzyingly around your head and joining your dive team without invitation. There are villages submerged at the bottom of the lake and a fantastic area which is home to a submerged forest. Huge trees are a regular feature on any of the dives and swimming passed them is like cruising through an enchanted forest.
There are some amazing cavern and cave systems though and it’s a perfect place to learn the skills required to complete your cavern and/or cave training too. My next trip here will be to do just this. I love the area and enjoy the challenge of photography here but recognise the need to complete atleast the cavern course to be able to capture the images I want.
The team involved in the exploration are currently putting together a mission to penetrate what used to be a mountain pass before the dam. The pass is around 1km long with at least half of it now submerged. If you have a cave certification then its you’re going to love it, its truly uncharted and has fantastic exploration opportunities.
It’s truly quite different and the peace and quiet of the surrounding completes the relaxation of a total break. Electricity is by generator only which runs for a few hours each night at the accommodation. Phones don’t work and there is certainly no internet! The overnight accommodation is simple but somehow once on the lake you don’t seem to need much! Raft houses made up of individual bungalows floating on the lake are pretty much the norm. The food is the best I have tasted in a long while and the service and friendliness of the families who run these resorts is refreshing. Sunset is stunning and waking up to the sound of actual monkeys in the morning is something to remember. I can never wait to get back. I’ll be sure to let you know how I get on with my line laying on my next trip!
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